Wednesday, August 19, 2020

WSL Big Wave Rides of the Year...the nominees


 I grew up surfing back east in southern Delaware.  When I moved to Nor Cal in '81, I found my home with 8-10 foot waves in Carmel and Santa Cruz.  My first tube ride was in Zuma on shrooms.  What a ride.  They say that getting tubed is like returning to the womb.  However, this is a womb with a view!  Sorry, old joke.

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