Wednesday, April 19, 2017

Paddle Only

Growing up in Delaware, our waves were not very big.  Once in a while a storm would come thru and we would get a little action.  I would surf all day in those days and got pretty good.  We took a trip to Hawaii when I was 17.  We were on Ohau and headed to the North Shore for the day.  We arrived at Sunset Beach and could see the waves way out there.  Looked like a good day.  We waxed up and headed out.  The waves were at least a half mile away.  After paddling for a long time we arrived at the break.  Oh my!  These waves were monsters and I was way out of my league.  I watched a couple go by and the locals surfing them skillfully.  I decided they were way too big for me and paddle back in with my tail between my legs.  We ended up at Haleiwa and had a much better situation to surf my first of many Hawaiian waves.

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