Wednesday, April 19, 2017
Growing up in Delaware, our waves were not very big. Once in a while a storm would come thru and we would get a little action. I would surf all day in those days and got pretty good. We took a trip to Hawaii when I was 17. We were on Ohau and headed to the North Shore for the day. We arrived at Sunset Beach and could see the waves way out there. Looked like a good day. We waxed up and headed out. The waves were at least a half mile away. After paddling for a long time we arrived at the break. Oh my! These waves were monsters and I was way out of my league. I watched a couple go by and the locals surfing them skillfully. I decided they were way too big for me and paddle back in with my tail between my legs. We ended up at Haleiwa and had a much better situation to surf my first of many Hawaiian waves.