Thursday, December 06, 2007
Hi. My name is Gideon and I am a surf addict.
I have been an addict for 24 years. I can’t go without a very regular fix of surfing. I admit that. I will do almost anything to surf. Lie, cheat, steal. And beg. I’ve quit many jobs, I’ve lost plenty babes and my career is going nowhere. All because of surfing. Yes, it has gotten bad. The addiction has taken over my life to such an extent that I am now living on a boat right next to the lineup. That’s what you call a mainline surf addiction. I am mainlining bro. Every day, all day long.
I did the high school and college thing and kept my addiction under control. There were a few “flare ups”, extended surf trips which almost cost me my degree on more than one occasion. Got lost in the Mexico if you know what I mean. But I got myself back over the border. Back into my suit and tie. Back on track. As a young lawyer I initially kept the addiction under control. In the beginning it was easy to hide the wetsuit rash under my collar. But the post surf sinus drip happens when you least expect it. A dead give away to those who know. Gradually the addiction got worse. I knew I was developing a real problem when I started surfing during my 15 minute morning “tea break”. No time was too short to surf. My surf addiction was a runaway train. Continue reading here.