Wednesday, July 19, 2017

The Perfect Wave

My perfect wave happened at Zuma Beach in Malibu.  I had been surfing for about 14 years and never been tubed.  I dropped in on a nice right and made a clean bottom turn.  Next thing I know, the wave is tubing and I am in a perfect position inside the green room.  What an awesome feeling!  They say it's like returning to the womb...but this is a womb with a view!

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