Friday, March 10, 2017

For Your Weekend

I started surfing in the late 60's in lower Delaware (Indian River Inlet).  Moved up to the big time in Cali in 1981 and living in Carmel, CA.  I was 22 and surf was my middle name.  Big Sur, Santa Cruz, Ocean Beach, Hawaii and more.  Got my first tube ride at Zuma.  What a rush.  They say it can feel like you are returning to the womb while inside the tube.  However, this is a womb with a view!  Happy weekend!

No comments: