Tuesday, November 03, 2020

Kissed by God

Watched a very insightful surf flick about the late Andy Irons.   He is the only surfer to win king of the surfing world 3 times in a row.  He had some mental issues as well as drug issues that eventually killed him 10 years ago at 32.  His bipolar disorder gave him a laser focus and brought him many big wins.  It also tore him down into deep depression.  Pretty sad story but amazing as well.  It's free on Amazon with Prime.

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